Costume Is Control In Polygamy

For most of us, what we wear is limited only by our pocketbook and our ability to tastefully arrange its elements. Our choices are often only eclipsed by the reasons we choose to wear what we do: to look pretty, to appear in control, to be taken seriously at work. But for the women of the Texas Polygamists-as they are popularly referred to in the media-what you wear is an indication of your virtue, strength of faith and ultimately your subservience to your husband. "You can modify people's behaviour just by putting them in a certain kind of dress." Oddly enough, my entire career has rested on that very premise. But these words were uttered by Carolyn Jessop, a former spiritual wife of Merrill Jessop, the bishop of the Texas FLDS enclave and the context is quite different. "Its a uniform. You have nothing about you that's individual. You're just part of a whole." She is quoted in the Salt Lake Tribune talking about how the clothing that the FLDS women wear is a matter of mandate. Strictly enforced and coloured- coded by family, even the way a woman wears her her hair is minutely controlled. 

Watch this for a MSNBC report. And this if you want to watch Carolyn Jessop read from her autobiography about her escape from the Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.

Legalizing Beauty Standards or Censorship?

This is a contentious topic for many, but one that is worth talking about: the relationship (if there is any at all) between the media, fashion and eating disorders. In the weekend issue of the Globe & Mail, Siri Agrell wrote "The Perils of Legislating A Healthy Aesthetic" about the schism between the size of fashion models and  healthy body weight (and what that means). The article examines how the government of France has tabled a bill that would, as CNN says, make it "illegal for anyone-including fashion magazines, advertisers and web sites-to incite extreme thinness". According to Ms. Agrell this is a dialogue thats happening here at home too. "In October, a group of fashion designers from Milan attended the L'Oreal Fashion Week in Toronto and asked Fashion Design Council of Canada president Robin Kay to sign a pledge not to use skinny models in the shows.  She refused." Whether its appropriate, or useful for the state to rule on the appropriateness of someone's physique (or more importantly someone's intrepretation of their body image) is a slippery slope in my opinion, especially given that eating disorders are more a social and psychiatric condition rather than a criminal one. 

Click for the slide show that accompanies the Globe & Mail article.

Quote Of The Week: Marc Jacobs on Creative License

"Appropriation is a totally contemporary and actual way of creating. Every field works to a certain extent in that way, and I think one is absolved of being a thief or a fraud when one fesses up to what informs one's work. I always get this quote from Chanel wrong, but the gist of it is that he who insists on his own creativity has no memory.  I don't think it's necessary to say how fantastically original one is, and if one does, one only has to dig in the past to find out who came up with that idea. Innovation is an evolutionary process, so it's not necessary to be radical all the time."

-Marc Jacobs

Ethical Fashion

Today's issue of London's Daily Mail features a poignant article about disposable fashion-think H&M, French Connection, Zara-and the conditions under which its made. The story highlights a new 4 part BBC reality series called Blood, Sweat and T-Shirts that follows 6 twentysomethings that travel to India to experience life as garment factory workers. How conscious! This looks like reality TV worth watching: go BBC! Check out the new BBC fashion website Thread-the online fashion magazine dedicated to eco-fabulous style too. There's a great section called Style File and a Features section which are definately worth checking out.

Trade Secrets: Topstick

I am not pulling your leg when I suggest that having Topstick brand toupee tape in your tickle trunk of supplies just might prevent you from pulling your hair out. Honestly, this double sided invisible tape is amazing. I use it all the time, on skin or fabric, on and off the set. Its great to travel with! It keeps belts in place, plunging v-neck tops from exposing your tatas, and its especially good when your hem drops. They are easy to use, can be cut to size, made of medical grade adhesive (virtually hypo allergenic) and can be used directly on the skin (and don't cause rashes). It doesn't slip or lose its grip even after hours of use. Just be careful when you pull it off your skin or removing it from delicate fabrics and remember to remove it before you launder anything.

Trade Secrets: Wet Ones

Oh my goodness its been too long since I last posted. Work got crazy busy, then it was tax time, then I got sick and my best friend is getting married--you get the idea. So in the spirit of a busy life and how sh*t just sometimes happens, I thought I would do 2 posts of trade secrets. These are hard working tools of the trade that every person should have in their tickle trunk of supplies. First up-Wet Ones brand moist wash clothes are the ultimate must-have! You never know when disaster will strike-except that it will almost always happen when you are in something brand new, white or when you can least afford the inconvenience-- like you are about to go on camera. As a costumer for Film and TV for 20 years believe me when I say that I won't go to work without them. They are incredible for removing blood, red wine, coffee, chocolate and almost all hard to remove stains.  The key is to use ONLY the original vitamin E and aloe blend with the blue packaging and use them when the spill is fresh. Lightly and in feathering motions up and away from the fabric, lift up and absorb the boo-boo with one sheet at a time (being careful to watch for any unstable dyes that might leech out of the fabric should it not be colourfast). Stay away from the antibacterial and scented versions of Wet Ones because they have a different formula and don't work nearly as well. Forget also about any other brand doing the same thing: The secret is the alcohol and the proprietary blend that does the trick. 

Trade Secrets: The JC Report

I am happy to introduce a new series of posts where I share tricks and tips of the trade. For the first post, I want to tell you about The JC Report. It's no longer just a bi-monthly newsletter. Its now a weekly newsletter and a website. I recommend it to all of my clients to keep an eye on up-and-coming designers, trends, trendsetters and all sorts of fashion intel. For example this little nugget of information about Amy Winehouse and Roberto Cavalli.

United Nude

Remember Ralph Fiennes character in David Cronenberg's movie "Spider" and how he wore his shirts? It may sound odd, but when I saw 'the Cup' (above) by United Nude from their Spring Summer 08 collection it made me think about that character. And only because its so unusual to see echoing shapes like this (and it might have something to do with the fact that I am a costume designer, but I digress). The shoe is actually a classic mule with a peep toe and the 'cup' part is a heel cover with ankle strap. Slip on your choice of heel from the selection of 3 different colours that you get with each pair and you've got yourself a customized shoe! The Cup comes in two heel heights: 'Hi' and 'Mid'. Be sure to check out the Mono Jane too. Lastly, I want to mention that United Nude do the most scrumptuous winter boot ever! They are called the Sharpei Bubble High and they are practical sexy and warm.  After the winter we've had this year-they will be on my wish list for next year!

Radar: JPG Magazine

I just discovered JPG Magazine. The tagline is "Your World In Pictures" and its a photography mag unlike any other. Its collaborative and community oriented. The content-photographs and the stories behind them-are submitted by readers and then voted on by other members for inclusion in each issue. You can find photo essays like "Storm Chaser" by Ryan McGinnis or this one by Eamonn Aiken which is a poignant commentary on the footprint of industry past and present called "Brooklyn Nights". There's plenty of fun stuff like the picture above by Simon Christen too.

Going Against The Grain

Fashion is almost always so ephemeral its ridiculous. But every so often you come across a maverick like Thomas Maier, designer for Bottega Veneta, whose conscientiousness, level headedness and modesty is, well, exquisite. So says Ruth La Ferla here.